This invention relates to hair cleansing and/or conditioning with the use of a selected guar gum. A clear shampoo is obtained.
The use of silicone conditioning ingredients is frequently seen in the art and in commercial products. Such ingredients provide a high degree of both wet and dry combing ability to a variety of hair types. The use of such silicone materials requires the presence of a stabilizing agent such as ethylene glycol distearate, C20-40 alcohols, behenyl alcohol, to name a few. While the stabilizing agents provide stability, they also add to the opaqueness of the final product. The opaqueness can be desirable if a pearlized product is desired, but it makes it impossible to achieve clear products. In addition, the use of dimethicone at typical use levels delivers unacceptable translucency and typically poor stability profiles. Further, the use of alternatives to dimethicone such as dimethicone copolyols, amodimethicone, or PEG silicone surfactants, or the exclusive use of polyquaterniums as polymeric conditioning agents can provide transparent shampoo systems but they do not provide the required beneficial conditioning properties to hair as evaluated with wet and dry combing tests.
Previous attempts at formulating hair care compositions include the following references.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,114,706 to Duvel describes hair conditioning shampoos comprising cationic dialkyl conditioning agents in combination with long chain fatty alcohols and non-volatile silicones that are suspended by cross-linked polymeric suspending agents.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,302,322 to Birtwistle describes a shampoo comprising a cationic deposition polymer, a surfactant, and a water-insoluble end-functionalized quaternary silicone polymer capable of dissolving in the surfactant.
U.S. Pat. No. 6,194,363 to Murray describes small particle size emulsified silicone in combination with amino functional silicones to boost conditioning properties of the conditioning shampoo.
U.S. Pat. No. 6,495,498 to Niemiec et al describes a 2-in-1 detergent system comprising a water soluble silicone agent, a cationic conditioning agent and a detergent.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,326,483 to Halloran et al describes a clear shampoo product which contains a cationic oil-in-water emulsion of an amine functional polydimethyl silicone and a method of making a clear and stable shampoo composition with the absence of a pearling agent.
PCT Publication WO 02/22085 describes a method for treating the hair with a transparent concentrated hair conditioning composition.
This invention relates to the use of a selected quaternized silicone conditioning agent in combination with a selected guar gum and Polyquaternium-10. The quaternized silicone is recognized under the INCI designation-silicone Quaternium-8 (tradename Ultrasil Q-8 and Ultrasil Q8 Plus), both from Noveon, Inc. Cleveland Ohio. All three ingredients are necessary for forming products according to the invention. The omission of the guar gum reduces wet comb-ability and poorer lathering properties while also reducing the viscosity of the final product. The omission of the silicone quaternary materials reduces dry comb-ability and there is less of a smooth feel to washed hair. Omission of the Polyquaternium-10 reduces formulation viscosity and foam slip and results in a less desirable coated feel to the hair. If the level of cationic guar gum is raised to improve the lesser desired properties without Polyquaternium-10, the formulation becomes slightly hazy. Thus, all the ingredients listed above are critical to the formulation of an acceptable product.
The conditioning shampoos of the invention comprise:
(a) 8-18 weight % (particularly 8-12%) of an anionic surfactant;
(b) 0.5-0.8 weight % of a conditioning system comprising:
(i) 0.1-0.75 weight % (particularly 0.3-0.6% and, more particularly, 0.5%) of a silicone quaternium material which is silicone Quaternium-8 (INCI designation) (tradename Ultrasil Q-8 and Ultrasil Q8Plus);
(ii) 0.1-0.5 weight % (particularly 0.15-0.3%) of a low molecular weight (less than 100,000 centipoise, more particularly in the range 40,000-65,000 cps) guar gum as an aqueous clear cationic solution of modified polysaccharide (such as AquaCat(trademark) CG-518 clear cationic solution from Hercules Inc., Wilmington, Del.); and
(iii) 0.1-0.5 weight % (particularly 0.15-0.3%) of Polyquaternium-10 (also sometimes referred to as Polymer JR);
(c) 1.0-6.0 weight % (particularly 3-5%) of an amphoteric surfactant;
(d) 0.5-5.0 weight % (particularly 1-3%) of a member selected from the group consisting of cocodiethanol amide (xe2x80x9cCDEAxe2x80x9d) and cocomonoethanol amide (xe2x80x9cCMEAxe2x80x9d) (useful as foam stabilizer and/or rheology modifier); and
(e) the remainder as water;
provided that if CDEA is used with betaine, a salt such as NaCl or an equivalent or similar salt (such as, for example, ammonium chloride) is included in an amount of 0.1%-2.00 weight % to thicken the product to 3,500 cps or greater if a liquid non-aerosol product is to be formed. Viscosity is typically measured using a Brookfield RVT viscometer using spindle #4 and 20 r.p.m. with the sample being equilibrated to 25C.
The hair care composition of the invention comprises at least one surfactant which may be selected from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants and mixtures thereof. Examples of required surfactants include at least 8 weight % of an anionic surfactant, and at least one of the following: 1) at least 0.1 weight % (particularly 1-2 weight %) amphoteric or semipolar surfactant or 2) at least 0.5 weight % (particularly 1-2 weight %) of a nonionic surfactant.
Optionally other ingredients may be included such as other types of surfactants (zwitterionic, semi-polar, nonionic ) rheology modifiers, coloring agents, UV absorbers, protein derivatives, fragrance (xe2x89xa60.1 weight %), and vitamins (xe2x89xa60.1 weight %), may be added provided that clarity is maintained.
The clarity of the final product may be ascertained by being able to read 12 pitch typed print through a clear bottle approximately 4-5 cm (about 1.5-1.75 inches) thick using naked eye evaluation.
The conditioning shampoos of this invention are also unique since they are transparent to clear even with the use of guar gum as described above. The use of the type of guar gum as described above is important to the invention. It should also be noted that the formulations of this invention are able to achieve the required clarity without the use of microsponges. Finally, the present compositions do not require the presence of stabilizers. Thus, the formulations of this invention can (i) include silicone-free microsponges or (2) be both microsponge-free and stabilizer-free; or (3) include stabilizers not principally as stabilizers but to control foam aesthetics (add creaminess, slip, etc.).
The products of this invention may be used as liquids, placed in a pressurized container with a propellant added, or used in a pump spray form. The viscosity of the product will be selected to accommodate the form desired with a liquid having a modified viscosity in the range of 500-3000 centipoise, a non-aerosol pump spray having a viscosity in the range of xe2x88x92300-2000 centipoise, and an aerosol foam using a liquid material having a viscosity in the range of 300-2500 centipoise.
The low molecular weight quaternized guar gum comprising guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride was obtained from Hercules under the tradenamexe2x80x94Aquacat(trademark) CG518. For this product generally, the weight average molecular weight is between 5,000 and an upper limit of 200,000 and the light transmittance is greater than 80% at a wavelength of 600 nm in a 10% aqueous solution. Both the chemical description and method for manufacture are described in detail in U.S. patent application Ser. No. 10/139,858 filed May 6, 2002.
The water soluble silicone quaternary compound ingredient is commercially available from Noveon Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio under the tradename of Ultrasil Plus and is described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,166,297. The preferred material has an average charge density of 0.35 meq/g and is supplied as a 100% active water soluble ingredient that is prepared by the reaction of a hydroxyl containing silicone polymer with a quaternized alkylamido dimethylamine. It is a cationic silicone quat that confers to the INCI designation Silicone Quaternium-8.
The hair care invention also includes a specific cationic deposition polymer which is a cationic cellulose derivative. Suitable cationic cellulose derivatives include Polymer JR series, from Union Carbide.
Suitable anionic surfactants include the alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkaryl sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, n-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates and alpha-olefin sulfonates, especially their ammonium, sodium, magnesium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and may be saturated or unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates may contain from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units per molecule. One particular group of anionic surfactants are members selected from the group consisting of sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate; disodium ricinoleamido monoethanolamide (xe2x80x9cMEAxe2x80x9d) sulfosuccinate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium laureth-13 carboxylate, sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate, sodium laureth-4 phosphate, laureth-3 phosphate, triethylanolamine lauryl sulfate, magnesium lauryl sulfate, sodium tridecyl sulfate, and alpha-olefin sulfate. Another specific group includes ammonium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate and triethanolamine lauryl sulfate. The most preferred anionic surfactants are ammonium lauryl sulfate and sodium lauryl ether sulfate. The most preferred anionic surfactants are sodium lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate 1 EO, 2EO and 3EO and ammonium lauryl ether sulfate 1EO, 2EO and 3EO.
Suitable amphoteric surfactants are those selected from the group consisting of sultaines (such as cocamidopropyl hydroxy sultaine); glycinates (such as cocoamphocarboxyglycinates); glycines (such as cocoamidopropyldimethylglycine); propionates (such as sodium lauriminodipropionate, sodium cocamphopropionate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, and cocoamphocarboxypropionate). In addition, Psuedo amphoteric (ampholytic) surfactants such as betaines are also commonly grouped within the designation-Amphoteric surfactants and can be used for similar purposes. Useful betaines include cocamidopropyl, coco, and oleamidopropyl.
Nonionic surfactants suitable for use in the composition of the invention may include condensation products of aliphatic (C8-18) primary or secondary linear branched chain alcohols with alkylene oxides or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups. Nonionic surfactants suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention can include fatty acid alkanolamides. Representative fatty acid alkanolamides include those having C10-C18 carbons. For example, fatty acid diethanolamides such as isostearic acid diethanolamide and coconut fatty acid diethanolamide. Suitable fatty acid monoethanolamides which may be used include coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide and coco mono-isopropanolamide. A particularly suitable nonionic surfactant includes cocodiethanolamide sold under the tradename Standamid KD from Cognis Company.
Semi-polar surfactant surfactants such as amine oxides are also suitable for use in the present invention. These include N-alkyl amine oxide, and N-stearyl dimethylamine oxide. A suitable N-acyl amide oxide includes N-cocamidopropyl dimethylamine oxide. The hydrophobic portion of the amine oxide surfactant may be provided by a fatty hydrocarbon chain having from about 10-21 carbon atoms.
While not required as a stabilizer in the invention, thickeners can be used to facilitate the application of the shampoo composition to the hair, and are preferably added in sufficient quantities to provide a more luxurious effect. Representative thickening agents which may be used are cellulose derivatives and acrylates copolymers.
A special group of thickeners useful in the invention are nonionic thickeners such as condensation products of aliphatic (C8-18) primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, oxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, starch and starch derivatives such as hydroxyethylamylose and starch amylase, locust bean gum bean, sodium and ammonium chloride, saccharides such as fructose and glucose and derivatives of polysaccharides such as PET-120 methyl glucose dioleate. A particularly suitable thickener is acrylates copolymer sold under the tradename AQUA SF-1 by Noveon Inc. of Brecksville, Ohio-USA.
Additional conditioners, may be added to the shampoo composition in the form of organic cationic conditioning agents for the purpose of providing more hair grooming if deemed necessary such as cationic conditioning agents that may include homopolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride; copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride; homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid which contain cationic nitrogen functional groups attached to the polymer by ester or amide linkages and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and acrylic acid esters with quaternary nitrogen functionality. Specific materials include Polyquaterniums 7 and, 11 Other possible candidates include Polyquaterniums 8 and 23 provided that clarity can be maintained.
Cationic anti-static agents that may have some surfactant character such as cetyl trimethylammonium chloride, cetyl trimethylammonium bromide and stearyltrimethylammonium chloride may also be employed if deemed advantageous as additional cationic antistatic conditioning agents. Also included in this category are salts of primary fatty amines. The alkyl groups of such amines preferably have from about 12 to 22 carbons atoms and may be substituted or unsubstituted. Suitable amine salts include phosphate, citrate lactate and alkyl sulfate salts used at less than 1% in the formulation and should not interfere with the clarity of the final formulation.
The hair care compositions of the invention will be optically clear. However, opaque or pearlized formulations in accordance with the invention may be made by the specific addition of a pearlizing agent to the clear formula. Such agents include those known in the industry to provide a pearlizing appearance such as glycol stearate (preferably added in a vehicle to allow for the addition of a liquid such as Euperlan PK4000 from Cognis Corp.) or ethylene glycol distearate.
The hair care compositions of the invention may contain other components in minor amounts (for example less than 1%) commonly found in standard shampoo formulations such as antibacterial agents, antidandruff agents such as zinc pyridinethione, pearlizing agents, perfumes, dyes, coloring agents, preservatives, viscosity modifiers, proteins, polymers, buffering agents, polyols and other moisturizing ingredients, plant extracts, herb extracts, marine extracts and the like. The minor amounts should not interfere with the clarity.